My Secret: I Visit Europe Because of the Bread
Nice, France
The best bread maker in Nice is a 10-minute walk from my apartment. “Best” is a big claim, I know, but I’ve tried several different places and, so far, I agree. My wine guy told me Jean Marc Bordonnat was the place to go. My first impression was that the boulangerie was very cute, very old world. Word has it they’ve won awards for "the best baguette in the Alpes Maritimes" and "the best croissant in the Alpes Maritimes.”
No one working there that day admitted to speaking English. I ordered a small baguette and a muffin. As I stumbled through my elementary French, the young girl helping me said she wished she could visit the U.S. She asked how to say “receipt” in English and I told her. I hope her memory is better than mine. Besides tasting the best, they’ve been the friendliest.
Even though I found Jean Marc on my first day, there are so many boulangeries, it seemed a shame not to try others. I found that each one is different. Some are spacious with long counters and seating areas. Some are tiny spots, with barely enough room to turn around in front of the counter. Some have multiple sandwiches and beautiful pastries; some have only bread. So far, I’ve tried baguettes, a muffin, pain au chocolat (chocolate croissant), a cherry tart, a chicken sandwich, a chocolate brioche, pain de campagne (country bread), quiche Lorraine, and pain au miel (honey bread, with raisins). Whew, when I list it all out, it’s more than I realized in these two weeks. Right now, there is another pain au chocolat and a brioche with sausage waiting in the kitchen for tomorrow.
It’s sad to think I have paid $5.45 for a chocolate croissant at Starbucks back home, when these beautiful, fresh versions are here for $1.65.
Pain au chocolat from Pointue des Pecheurs, a block away from Port Lympia
If you’re one of those people, like I was, who romanticizes the idea of walking to the local market every day or two, there are definitely some benefits. Fresh vegetables and fruits. Charming shops. And getting in all those steps! It’s a natural way to exercise. On the other hand, there is a reason you have to go every day or two. No parking lots and no easy way to pick up a big grocery order. I can’t load too many items in the reusable grocery sack that I keep rolled up in my backpack, so I run out of essentials every couple of days. On top of that, kitchens and refrigerators tend to be tiny.
As I do my regular run to the market, I see mothers holding their children’s hands coming from school and old women pulling rolling carts and men with baguettes under their arms. I wonder what it would be like if I had to fit the market into my day with a job and a family. I don’t think it would be so romantic.
Still, there is nothing like a fresh piece of crusty European bread with a soft, chewy center. I’ll take those daily steps to the boulangerie.
Tips & Recommendations
I was glad to learn that ordering a “demi baguette” is perfectly acceptable if you can’t eat a whole baguette in one day.
Description of types of bakery items: https://www.parisperfect.com/blog/2017/04/how-to-order-french-bakery/
Boulangerie etiquette during the ordering process: https://everydayparisian.com/boulangerie-etiquette-for-paris/
When you want to be particular with your order: http://www.travelproper.com/buying-bread-paris/
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I traveled to France for 30 days in September and October of 2024 to see what it would be like to “live” internationally. The plan was to stay in Nice, spend time writing, and find out what happens when you’re not pressed to see every significant site in seven days.