Being an Airhead is Risky When You’re Traveling: You Need a Village
Nice, France
When I’m traveling, I put my money and credit cards in weird places. I’ve never been a pickpocket victim, but I like to take precautions. I take my phone out of the case, which is also a credit card wallet, and the phone stays in my hand or goes in a pocket. The phone case/wallet goes in the front pocket of my backpack or a waist belt. A change purse with cash goes in the middle compartment of my backpack. Keeping track of everything keeps me a little off-balance.
This week, at the grocery checkout, I put my credit card wallet under my arm while I took my shopping bag out of my backpack. Then I promptly forgot that it was under my arm and I panicked when I couldn’t find it. The cashier tried to make helpful suggestions. Is it in this pocket? Under the bags of groceries? In your jacket pocket? Finally, I found it under my arm.
That same day, I stopped by Aperitiv, the wine store where I met “my wine guy” on my first day in town. He had been my first real attempt at speaking French after the Sheraton desk clerk. He asked if I wanted a description of the wines in French. Of course I did, though I probably caught about 10% of the information. There was a lot of stuff about terroirs and aging and tasting notes.
When I was checking out, he asked where I was from. When I said “Texas,” he and his boss looked at each other and chuckled.
“When someone comes in here with a bad French accent, we say he is from Texas.” He was quick to add that I don’t have a bad French accent.
I was looking forward to going back to Aperitiv because he’d made great wine and cheese recommendations. When I walked in, I gave him a big wave.
"My" Wine Guy from Aperitiv
“Remember me? I’m the girl from Texas!
He said he did, but he looked like he was searching his memory. I kept going with my basic French.
“I loved the wine you recommended.”
“Do you remember the name?”
“No, but I took a photo.”
“Oh, good.”
He pulled out that wine and another he thought I would like. We had a long discussion about cheese. I tasted three different cheeses and we settled on the hard goat cheese. While I paid for my purchases, I said, “I passed many wine stores, but I waited to come back here because you were so helpful and made such good recommendations.”
He laughed and said, “Could you say that again, louder?” He gestured toward his boss.
The boss said, “I heard it.”
I said, “You deserve a raise.”
The boss said, “I quit listening.”
I said, “Oh, tu ne parles pas anglais.” You don’t speak English all of a sudden.
The boss nodded and smiled.
We exchanged warm goodbyes and I left happily, on my way to visit the chocolate store beside my apartment building. Florian is a confectionary that started in 1921. Matisse went there to purchase his favorite chocolates. I selected a round package of cookies, Sable Chocolat au Lait, and a square of chocolate laced with coffee. When I went to pay, I discovered that my credit card was missing. Just as in the grocery store, I felt panic. The shop lady was very kind, asking if everything was okay and offering to hold my purchases for me. Fortunately, I had enough euros to pay cash, and I knew exactly where I’d left my card.
I rushed back to the wine shop, popped in with a “bonjour,” and my wine friend immediately went over to the cash register and handed me my credit card. “The next time, you give me your phone number. I ran up and down the street looking for you! I was worried.”
Even in this large French city, I’m beginning to feel like this is my neighborhood and I am getting to know the shopkeepers. Which is really helpful when you’re having an airhead day.
Tips & Recommendations
The wine I like so much is a red blend, Chateau Vignelaure, 2016. I searched Total Wine for it with no results. I may not be able to get it back home.
All of the stores in Nice have taken credit cards, except for one small bakery. I needed cash for the farmer’s market at Cours Saleya, and a bus driver told me to use cash if I decide to take the bus to Villefranche-sur-Mer.
For cash, I found an ATM right by the market that didn’t charge an exchange fee. I was shocked. I’ve learned that bank ATMs generally give the best rate, usually with an exchange fee. The freestanding ATMS, especially in tourist areas, have much higher fees.
You have to be extra organized when you’re out of your routine. I think we take for granted how much we rely on habits and routines to keep track of our keys, our phone, our wallets, etc. I’m very aware that if I lose my apartment key, I’ll have a hard time contacting my host through AirBnB to get a replacement. I try to take time to do an inventory of everything I need before I go out the door.
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I traveled to France for 30 days in September and October of 2024 to see what it would be like to “live” internationally. The plan was to stay in Nice, spend time writing, and find out what happens when you’re not pressed to see every significant site in seven days.