Flea Markets and “Vide Grenier”: A Non-Shopper Goes Shopping in Nice
Nice, France
I’ve never been a good shopper. Maybe it started when my dad dragged the family out to flea markets in western Pennsylvania. He was interested in tools and car-related items. I was not. I remember it being hot and tiring and boring.
So, when I woke to find a giant flea market outside my window in Nice, I thought it was ironic. I wouldn’t go out of my way to visit one, but I couldn’t ignore it when it was laid out at my feet. And I’m not exaggerating when I say “laid out” — the entire length of Port Lympia.
The port flea market was held three of the four Sundays I was in Nice. (They took a break when the Automobile Club of Nice took over for a Sunday.) The markets are scheduled for 7 a.m. to 4:30, but stalls were still up at 6 p.m., with some not dismantling until 7. Online guidelines say 250 exhibitors are allowed, costing them 30 euros to exhibit. Visitors meander through the stalls while the usual runners and dog walkers weave around to get past them to the Promenade.
“Vide Grenier,” which means “empty your attic,” is a French tradition. The online descriptions make it sound like a ton of treasures waiting to be discovered, but I saw the typical flea market used stuff: dishes, shoes, coats, old books and albums, jewelry. There were some stylish clothing items, mostly in small sizes. Those of you who are shoppers are probably shaking your head at me. You would find some very cool stuff on all those table, I’m sure.
This day, I was on the lookout for a purse. I only had my travel daypack, which I didn’t think was suitable for the chamber music concert I planned to attend. I found an all-leather bag made in Italy for 15 euros, so it was well worth the time I spent wandering. The vendor’s name was Noemie. We didn’t have a long conversation, but long enough that she agreed to let me take her photo. My dad would have tried to bargain with her for a lower price, but I paid the 15 euros.
Noemie at the port flea market
In addition to the Sunday flea market, my apartment building was practically next door to a permanently established flea market, Les Puces de Nice. This literally means “The Fleas of Nice.” I put off going (remember, not a shopper), until the last day of my stay in Nice. I was delighted to find a lot of quality items. Les Puces de Nice had some beautiful furniture and household items, along with good quality jewelry.
It’s frustrating to shop when you no longer have a house. But I also remember all the things I purged when I was putting my belongings in storage. It probably saves me from making some misguided purchases. I have a couple of boxes of items I bought while traveling that seemed like a good idea at the time, but didn’t really fit anywhere when I got home.
I couldn’t resist buying a handmade Bleu D’Argile pitcher, handmade in Vallauris, near Cannes. I didn’t get the proprietor’s name, so let’s call him Paul. Paul asked if I knew about Vallauris, and said Picasso had gone there to study ceramics. The town was renowned for its quality. Thirty euros seemed like a great deal for this piece of French lore.
I’m sorry I didn’t ask his name. I’ll just think of him as “Paul.”
Not only did I get some background on ceramics, but I got a little background on Paul as well. When he got up to find some bubble wrap, he said he felt dizzy because he’d gotten a flu shot yesterday. This led to a conversation about immunizations and whether or not he’d had the COVID vaccine. He’d received a few rounds, but was now recovering from lymphoma, having gone through courses of chemotherapy and immunotherapy. He said both his doctor and his “chemist,” a highly trained medical professional at the pharmacie, told him not to take the latest COVID shot.
Paul said it took a long time to diagnose his cancer because his doctor was mistakenly treating him for allergies. By the time he got the appropriate diagnosis, they said he would have been gone in two weeks if they hadn’t caught it when they did.
I think the pitcher is cute, but more importantly, I’ll remember Paul, the way he made sure I knew the origins of the pitcher, and how he is continuing his fight to live.
Tips & Recommendations
Have cash on hand for flower, food, and second-hand markets. They especially appreciate exact change. Some vendors take credit cards, but not all.
Everyone warns to watch out for tourist shops, but sometimes those tourist tchotchkes are inexpensive little reminders of your trip. I like the little bags of lavender or bars of soap I’ve picked up in convenient tourist traps. How about less guilt and judgment? That said, do watch out for “Made in China” or other sources when you are trying to buy something from the region.
If you like to shop, this is a great guide to second-hand and vintage shopping in Nice. My shopping friends, I admire you.
According to this list, the must-have souvenirs in Nice are provencal pottery, olive oil and tapenade, herbs from Provence, lavender products, and candied fruits and sweets.
I traveled to France for 30 days in September and October of 2024 to see what it would be like to “live” internationally. The plan was to stay in Nice, spend time writing, and find out what happens when you’re not pressed to see every significant site in seven days.