I Left My Bad Luck Tied to a Tree by the Temple
Tokyo and Kyoto, Japan
It would be easy to fill a trip to Japan with visits to shrines and temples. Each one is special in its own way. The architecture is beautiful and they have special gardens, statuary, or features that make them worth seeing. Still, toward the end of our trip, when we were trying to decide what to do with one of our remaining days, a couple of us agreed, “No more temples.”
The problem with temple overload is you don’t take enough time ahead of the visit to read about the history or understand the significance. Some shrines are meaningful for blessing business endeavors, others for love and matchmaking. In my post about Kamakura, I mentioned the Hase-Kannon Temple, where parents mourn lost babies. Knowing the focus adds a special depth to the visit. I wish I’d learned more about each temple or shrine before seeing it.
I also didn’t know much about proper conduct. I watched my Japanese sister-in-law stop by the purification fountain, but I wasn’t sure if it was okay for me, a gaijin (foreigner), to use it. I should have used a dipper of water to wash my hands out of respect. But to be fair, I feel equally unsure of what to do in a Catholic cathedral. Am I allowed to light a candle? Should I genuflect? Mostly I try to just stay quiet and out of the way.
The temples and shrines were filled with tourists. They walked everywhere, posing in front of stone guardians of the temple, snapping photos, and gawking. Apparently, none of them, including me, knew there is a tradition of walking to the side of the path at the shrine. The middle of the path is reserved for the gods.
Possibly the most fun for tourists is pulling a fortune, called omikuji. It also can be a serious way for believers to check in for the new year or a special occasion. I remember being delighted with the fortune I pulled during my first visit to Japan. It’s in a box somewhere, packed up with all my belongings in storage, and I don’t remember any of the details.
This time, I dropped 300 yen (around $2) in the collection box and drew a stick with a number on it. Then I went to the box corresponding to the number and pulled out my fortune. It was labeled “Slight Fortune.” I liked some of it. “Do not regard the truth as your own, it is also the truth of others. Only those who work hard to stay on the path of truth will receive divine assistance.” Excellent advice. And “Keep trying…where there is a will, there is a way.” Then I hesitated as I got to the marriage advice: “Your parent’s advice will lead you to the best result.” Too late for that. The divorce they advised against was final 16 years ago. And then the advice about moving: “It is better not to move.” Again, too late. My house is sold, my belongings are in storage, and there is no going back. But the “Examination” category was the worst. “Your native language skills are still weak. Please review.” After a master’s degree in English, a stint teaching college English, and a career in corporate communications, I’m not sure how much more I can do to strengthen my native language skills. But hey, I’m always open to learning more.
The beautiful thing about the fortune tradition is you don’t have to live with a bad fortune. You can tie it to a tree or rack designated for that purpose and wash your hands of it. I tied it up, flicked my fingers at it, and said “Go away, go away.”
Another temple had a different take on determining one’s fortune. We stood in line to stand before a smooth round stone. Before lifting the stone, we had to think of our wish and then fix in our mind how heavy we thought the stone might be. Then we picked it up. If the stone was heavier than expected, your wish would not be realized. If it was lighter than expected, well, let me just say I’m looking forward to experiencing that best seller soon.
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Tips & Recommendations
Read or watch some YouTube videos about locations before you visit. It’s easy to find great information online. Your visits will be so much more meaningful. I am pretty good about researching transportation and hotels, but I often wait until after a visit to read about the history and culture. I have to start getting better about it.
This site provides a basic explanation of omikuji and how to pull your fortune.
Here is a general guide to visiting temples and shrines.
This is a good list of the 15 most notable temples and shrines.
This is a similar list of famous temples, but there is a lot of good detail about notable differences among them.
A lot of sources mention the Seven Lucky Gods Walk. This cultural walk can be taken in many different cities any time of year, but it is especially popular for New Year’s.